MORELIA’S SYMPHONY OF LIGHT
AND SHADOW
By Travis M. Whitehead
The sun eases slowly toward the west as I stand in front of El
Revoltijo, a restaurant across Avenida Madero from the Cathedral of Morelia.
Warm golden sunlight slips slowly across the west side of the cathedral,
turning the pink stone into revolving shades of orange and yellow. A pigeon
flies through bands of sun and shadow into an archway of the cupola where a
bell rings. A chilly wind sweeps down Avenida Madero. Bands of shadow slip
slowly across the arches, catching a trace of the bronze bell before it’s
overtaken by more kisses of the glimmer of night. Westward light illuminates
towers cloaked in shadow and song; a corner of a tower, the hem of a saint’s
stone cloak catches the sun as it crawls away.
I stumble into the evening as the sun cascades into the belly of the
night. I’m running,
chasing flashes of light before they recede beyond my reach.
It’s like trying to catch the
wind, a useless enterprise, but once in awhile I can hear
its whisper, and that’s all I need
to keep going.
Up El Nigromante,
shafts of dissipating light race across the eaves. Pediments and
flowered ornaments are replaced by warm floodlight; it
spreads over the rough walls,
sending ribbons of shadow that clash with the evading sun;
window balconies of
midnight metal sweep away in gentle arcs frozen by the hands
of old artisans.
On the west side of the street, the stone of the Palacio Clavijero
recedes into a cool darkness, evoking a mesmerizing purple. The dream of night
is taking effect, injecting its narcotic trance into my consciousness. I look
up and see pale blue, lavender and chartreuse flying across the sky, releasing
themselves from the light of day.
There’s not much time left. I race up to Allende Street,
where Melchor Ocampo once lived. There’s a rich quiet blue creeping in from the
jagged tear of bright light burning above deep purple clouds in the west,
pouring up Allende Street.
This street runs east to west, and the blazing play of gold on stone walls
gives way to lanterns casting shades of darkness, etching themselves into my
memory, conjuring a forgotten dream, a lost piece of identity.
I’m running through the streets along Allende, through the fading
doorways of my dreams, chasing shafts of light dancing across time, I’m
running along La Corregidora where the
Templo de San Agustin rises high enough to still catch a glimpse of the rapidly
disappearing day. The sun creeps across scarred stone, blemished columns with
etched flowers, exhausted stained glass and brutal towers saddened by time’s
eternal gaze. It creeps across the fountain and blemished cantera whose beauty
marks sealed their fate long ago.
I can only believe that the architects of this city were creating a
stage for the plays of light and shadow following the stars, tuned like a fine
Stradivarius, the clouds improvising their own rendition, time molding its
symphony as wind and rain shape the stones; the passage of time releases its
character, gives birth to its own personality, etching its texture.
It’s this play of light and shadow at the break of dawn and nightfall
that reveals the shadows of the soul, a forgotten heartbeat, a dance that lies
dormant beneath waking and dreaming, yet in those wandering shadows between
night and day, there’s a glimpse of the sleeping poets in us all. In this city,
the stone walls have created a rare doorway where eternity offers a reflection
of itself; the play of light and shadow lives throughout the night, and the
poet dances, the poet sings, the soul harmonizes with the forgotten harmonies
forever possessed, but seldom realized.
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